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Hydroseeding is the process of spraying a mixture of grass seed, fertiliser, biodegradable mulch and water onto a prepared surface. Hydroseeding is suitable for residential and commercial lawns, roadsides and banks. It is also used to control dust and erosion and even the most challenging soil types can be hydroseeded. Discover how hydroseeding could work for you in the information below.


Hydroseeding is a cost effective option for obtaining a new lawn over large areas. We use only a premium blend of Dwarf Rye and Fine Fescue grass seed in our hydroseed mix or we can apply a blend of your choice. The sprayed on mulch bonds to the prepared soil to withstand wind and regular rainfall. The combination of mulch and fertiliser creates an ideal environment for the seed to germinate.

Our price to hydroseed a lawn area of 200m² or larger is $4.00/m² (excluding GST)

Our price to hydroseed a lawn area less than 200m² is $800.00 (excluding GST)

A travel charge will apply to sites outside the New Plymouth/Bell Block/Waitara urban areas of $2.00/km (excluding GST)


We can hydroseed almost any bank, big or small, including those that are clay, papa mud or sandstone. The seed we use is selected to suit the application and extra products are included to make the mix extra tacky to ensure it adheres well to the surface.

Our price to hydroseed a bank that is 800m² or larger is $1.00/m² (excluding GST)

Our price to hydroseed a bank that is less than 800m² is $800.00 (excluding GST)

A travel charge will apply to sites outside the New Plymouth/Bell Block/Waitara urban areas of $2.00/km (excluding GST)


We hydroseed the sides of roads and banks for civil contractors following the installation of new roads or after road alterations or repairs. We apply a high rate of seed in our mix to ensure a good result is achieved and very large areas are no problem.


Hydroseeding can be used as an alternate daily cover for landfills. Applying a blend of special polymars allows good adhesion to the tip face which seals off odours and keeps vermin out. As hydroseeding applies only a very thin cover layer it results in prolonging the life of the landfill as opposed to applying a layer of soil.

Dust Control

Dust causes problems on many construction sites and is a health and safety issue that can leave you open to not only complaints from neighbours and passers by but also abatement notices from the local authority. Using our hydroseeding unit, we apply a slurry that forms a cap over the ground to prevent windblown dust.

Erosion Control and Slips

When it comes to erosion and slips, each site is different and there is a range of products available. To control erosion fast and cost effectively we use Flexterra®. Flexterra contains superior tackifiers to bond directly to the soil upon application. It can grow vegetation eight times faster than bare soil.

ProGanics™ Biotic Soil Media™ is a topsoil alternative that accelerates the development of depleted soils or substrates. Proganics can be sprayed over any type of soil and provides an abundant source of organic matter where topsoil is not available.

When combining Progranics and Flexterra, nothing matches their ability to immediately control erosion and quickly establish vegetation.

If you’re interested in our range of products and would like more information or want to make an order, fill out our Enquiry Form and a member of the Expert Turf team will get back to you as soon as possible.

Enquire about Hydroseeding

    Surface Preparation

    When to hydroseed

    It is best to hydroseed a lawn in the early autumn. This is because the ground is warm after summer, there tends to be more moisture about, the seed will get off to a good start before the winter and weeds will be minimal. During the autumn, a good root system will develop, as opposed to top growth, and the lawn will be ready to withstand hot, dry spells in spring and summer.

    We understand that sometimes you have no option but to hydroseed a lawn at other times of the year. Lawns hydroseeded in spring will initially establish well, but due to immature root development, may suffer during the summer months and the invasion of weeds and summer grasses should be expected. While broadleaf weeds can be treated yourself, summer grasses will need to be sprayed by an approved chemical handler. Any bare or thin patches can be reseeded during the autumn.

    Surface preparation

    Spray out any existing vegetation with a non-residual herbicide such as Roundup. A repeat application two weeks later may be necessary to achieve an adequate result. For an existing lawn, we recommend removal with a turf cutter.

    Clear the site of all debris including sticks, stones, old weeds and grass, and cultivate the soil to a depth of 100mm by either digging or using a rotary hoe.

    Level the site with a rake taking care not to remove too much topsoil from any one area. Ideally, a minimum of 100mm of topsoil should be maintained across the site. Subsoil does not make a good seedbed as it is low in nutrients and will give variations in growing habit and colour.

    Consolidate the soil by tramping down by foot or using a light garden roller. Add soil if necessary to bring your finished level flush with adjacent hard surfaces and rake again to achieve a very smooth finish. The ideal final surface should be firm to walk on, leaving a light footprint but no indentation. The better the seedbed is prepared, the better the lawn will be.

    After Care

    Once your lawn has been Hydroseeded, please follow these recommendations to care for it while it is growing. The first few weeks are very important to ensure the seed germinates well.


    Do not water Hydroseeded lawns on the first day as this will disturb the seed mulch. For successful germination start watering from the second day and it is very important to keep the freshly seeded ground wet at all times. If the ground is allowed to dry out at all during the seed germination process, most of the tender germinating seedlings will die. The resulting stand of grass will be poor and sparse, and will be a good place for weeds to grow.

    When watering, always water with a fine spray to protect the seed and pay particular attention near concrete areas, as they will draw moisture from the seedbed.

    If watering with sprinklers we strongly recommend using a tap timer to control the amount of water being applied, as pooling water and water run-off can be detrimental to the grass establishment, resulting in bare areas. We recommend using oscillating sprinklers as these cause the least disturbance to the seed bed. Rotating sprinklers result in seed displacement.

    Once the grass is about 40-50mm high watering can be gradually reduced to every 3-7 days in the warmer months. No further watering is required in the cooler months.


    Different varieties of grass need to be mown at different heights to keep the grass healthy and looking great. Always use a catcher and ensure mower blades are sharp.

    Dwarf Rye/Fine Fescue | Fine Fescue

    The first mowing should take place when the grass is 40-50mm high. Trim lightly and gradually lower the blades over a few weeks to an ideal cutting height of 25-30mm. Mow regularly and try not to remove more than a third of the growth at a time. Regular mowing encourages lateral growth resulting in faster establishment of your lawn.

    Tall Fescue

    Mow Tall Fescue when the grass is 60-70mm high. Mow using the highest setting on your mower and maintain at this height. Mow regularly to encourage faster establishment of your lawn.

    It is important to mow Tall Fescue higher than other grasses. If you mow it too short it will die. Established Tall Fescue prefers a longer period between mows to keep it healthy. Ensure mower blades are sharp as blunt blades will damage the end of the leaf and leave an untidy finish.


    The mulch applied with your seed contains a starter fertiliser that will remain active during the germination and initial growth phase. After 4-6 weeks and again every three months your lawn will require feeding with a high quality, slow-release fertiliser to keep it in first class condition. Apply high nitrogen fertilisers to encourage growth and colour.

    Be sure to read all instructions carefully and apply fertiliser accordingly.

    Weed Control

    In general, no matter how good the preparation of the site is, weeds will always appear. While some of these weeds will be annual weeds, others will persist and can be treated with a suitable weed killer, but only after good establishment of the grass. Correct weed identification is important in achieving effective control.

    While a lawn is in its early growth stage, weeds may be pulled out by hand but if this is done, care must be taken not to disturb the surrounding grass seedlings. Weeds can also be cut out with a sharp knife.

    Established lawns can be treated with weed killer anytime during active growth but during periods of drought the weed killer will not be effective and may scorch the lawn.

    For on going weed control we recommend you see us for specific advise on chemicals and spraying practices.